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Yesterday, I warmed up on a 5.10c. (I had to cheat on one move -- I don't know what the story is there, because the angles just don't seem to work out without being a few inches taller, and they're usually good about keeping things possible for the under-six-foot crowd. Maybe a hold got turned; if that right handhold had been sideways instead of straight up it might have helped.) Then I climbed a couple 5.10ds, and a 5.11a, and a couple more 5.10ds, and finished off with a nice new 5.?, which turned out to have a broken hold and should have been labeled 5.PAIN because (later, after the broken hold) it violently separated part of the outer layer of my skin from the underlayer, so my index finger has a really nasty red blister thing and I had to tie my shoes mostly one-handed and get Andres to take the wrapper off the straw for my milkshake afterward. But I got to the top, so I feel very accomplished.

Getting up this morning I felt about 100 years old, but the stiffness is improving now. My hand is better too; as I predicted, now only the blistered part hurts when prodded and the rest of it has settled back down into being skin.

I retain the accomplished feeling, and I'm very curious about what they eventually rate that sucker.

Date: 2011-12-03 09:58 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xiphias.livejournal.com
How do you "cheat" at rock and/or rock-wall climbing? I thought that, if you got there, it counted.

Date: 2011-12-04 12:13 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tiger-spot.livejournal.com
In the gym, they set up each route with a different color of hold, so that they can pack more routes into the same space. If you use holds that belong to other routes, it's easier, so it doesn't count as climbing a route of the indicated difficulty.

Date: 2011-12-04 12:14 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] xiphias.livejournal.com
That's convenient, efficient, and unfairly tempting.

Date: 2011-12-04 12:19 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tiger-spot.livejournal.com
You get used to sticking to the right ones pretty quickly. It is occasionally annoying when there's a hold somewhere it's hard to see, and you have to ask your belayer whether you've found the right one. Also, I hate it when they put blue routes next to green or black routes, because there are some holds that are faded enough that they're either turquoise or gray and it's really hard to tell which route they belong to.

Date: 2011-12-04 01:18 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cobalt-00.livejournal.com
I argue that if they still choose to use those holds... they're fair game for either route! :)
I woke up this morning and thought that "my gums don't hurt" was a fairly accurate assessment. (Apparently triceps are sullen creatures - but I found a stretch that helped some.)
May I also say that the opening line to this post is really impressive.

Date: 2011-12-04 01:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tiger-spot.livejournal.com
Thank you!

(Some days I need more warming up than others.)

Date: 2011-12-04 07:19 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] inflectionpoint.livejournal.com
I want to learn the tricep stretch. That would help with my everything hurts, my current situation.

Date: 2011-12-05 12:17 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cobalt-00.livejournal.com
This may be entertaining to try to explain, so I went to the internet for something with pictures. I like this one:
http://www.sportsinjuryclinic.net/cybertherapist/stretching/triceps_stretch.php

Date: 2011-12-04 07:19 pm (UTC)

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